Faux Fashion: Natural and Synthetic Materials in the Fashion Industry
Model: Catalina Cruz; Photographer: Rachel Xing; Stylists: Grace Pham & Delicia Benie; HMUA: Grace Pham; Set Designer: Jalen Opinion
By Emily Krupa
Imagine this: you are shopping for some cowboy boots. You encounter the most beautiful pair that you have ever seen in your life—alligator leather. The color is just right, the designs are spot on, and the cost is $1,200. You decide to sleep on it. The next day, you go to the mall and see another pair of boots through a store window. This pair is $100 and made out of synthetic leather. Which one would you buy – rather – which one would you feel better about buying?
The runways glitter with furs, gems, leather, and beautiful fabrics. Each season, designers release new collections that showcase the magic of how the fashion industry turns basic materials into stunning works of art, but at what cost? High fashion has always been about taking beautiful, luxurious materials and spinning them into extraordinary works of wearable art. The ethical dilemmas about the sourcing of their materials were simply an afterthought.
Nevertheless, the world we live in now has shifted its focus to sustainable fashion. Many of the materials used in fashion are now sourced more sustainably– lab-grown gems, faux furs, and leathers – which have become mainstream materials. But are they truly sustainable? A heated debate has ensued around using natural and synthetic materials in fashion. It is only fitting – since the fashion industry contributes 92 million tons of fashion waste to landfills across the globe – to take a closer look at both sides of this argument.
We must first understand natural and synthetic materials to better establish what each side argues. Natural materials are made from plants, animals, or materials. These materials include silk, cotton, natural gems, furs, and leather. Synthetic materials are man-made, created from plastics, polyester, and other chemicals. Synthetic materials in fashion include faux fur, leather, polyester-blend fabrics that mimic satin and silk, and, of course, the lab-grown diamond.
Natural luxury materials, like silk, diamonds, gems, and furs, have always been regarded as top-tier. Fashion items made from natural materials tend to be more expensive. The way that these materials are sourced regularly exploits people and animals. Think about diamond mines, where workers suffer long hours and hazardous working conditions. Animal-sourced materials like furs, leather, and ivory face their own set of ethical questions. Too often, the fashion industry overlooks the suffering of the people and animals behind sourcing luxury items.
Synthetic materials were first pitched as a better alternative to natural materials, but these materials are not perfect. Synthetic materials are widely available and contribute to the fast fashion problem: exploiting fashion factory workers and negatively impacting the environment. Fashion waste, especially in water, is a big part of the industry’s environmental impact. Additionally, chemicals must be mixed to create synthetic materials. The process of making these materials contributes to 20% of global wastewater. According to the U.S. Department of Labor, workers who take these materials and make clothing items are paid as little as $1.58 per hour. While synthetic materials are an alternative to natural materials, it comes at a steep cost.
Natural materials are not without a set of benefits. Natural materials like furs, leather, and gems last longer. They can become heirloom pieces and stay out of the landfills. Natural fabrics, like cotton and linen, are also easier on the environment when they enter landfills. Think about grandma’s jewelry being passed down through generations. Her rings, necklaces, and earrings are all made of natural gems and have lasted long, avoiding landfills.
Synthetic materials are a cheaper alternative to natural materials. They are found in more affordable pieces of clothing. Synthetic materials are also an alternative to natural materials that harm animals or exploit mining workers. Faux leathers are made out of PVC and vegetable oils, eliminating harm to animals like cattle, alligators, snakes, and lambs. Lab-grown gems are another alternative to natural gems, which involve mining and putting workers in dangerous conditions.
Both natural and synthetic materials have their pros and cons, and a universal theme appears throughout this conversation: sustainability. Is the fashion world doing anything to combat this issue? The good news is that it is. Many scientific breakthroughs, like plant-based leather and recycled materials, are helping fashion become sustainable, but there are also simpler alternatives, like thrifting.
Plant-based leather can be made out of pineapple, cork, or even cactus. It is a more environmentally friendly and ethical substitute to animal leather. Speaking of new innovations, these technologies are also facilitating the recycling of materials like yarn and cotton-polyester blended fabrics. Thrifting has become popular among Gen Z. It helps reduce the carbon footprint of the fashion industry and keeps old clothes out of landfills.
For now, it is up to the consumer to make the most ethical choice when buying clothing. So, which one will you reach for, the alligator leather boots, or the pleather boots? Will you thrift some boots instead? The choice is up to you.