All in a Stitch
Models: Chayce Doda & Katerina Foster Raich; Photographer: Chieh-An Chen; Stylist: Emily Wager; HMUA: Adam Rodriguez
By Taylor Schult
Crochet is an art form that comforts many people. The sequence of wrapping the yarn, inserting the hook, and pulling out loops provides comfort in repetition, a respite from the anxiety of trying to see what happens next. You already know.
As an avid crocheter, I know firsthand how much energy goes into making each piece. Often, when people go to buy handmade items, they scoff at the high prices set by sellers. But sometimes, crochet is not a hobby. It is not an escape from the crippling pressures of the world. For some, crochet is that crippling pressure. It is the labor that barely provides enough money to support your family and keep a roof over your head. So when I walk around the mall with my friends and see trendy crochet items, I wonder how the mass production of these items in a factory undermines crochet as an art form. Crochet made in a factory is still made by hand, but those who make it are severely undervalued and likely underpaid. A part of the reason that people love crochet is that you can feel the love in each stitch. The same cannot be said about factory-made crochet. The factory workers don’t pick up a hook because they love it but must make a living.
Unsafe working conditions are not specific to crochet garment workers but are experienced throughout the fast fashion industry. According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, “Most garment workers feel unsafe at work. Not only are they working in dangerous buildings, but workers are routinely exposed to inhumanely high temperatures, harmful chemicals, and physical violence.” Most garment workers do not make enough money to feed themselves or their families. Going back to crochet and even knit pieces, many say a machine is now used in production. And while a machine may be able to start a piece, almost all of them are finished by hand. However, because the garment workers did not make the whole piece, they were not fairly compensated.
Looking at the environmental impact of it all, many fast fashion factories rely on synthetic materials, which contribute to plastic waste and environmental pollution. There is only so much space in landfills, and since these materials do not biodegrade, it only adds to the landfill problem. The production processes also involve toxic dyes, excessive water use, and poor disposal practices. Ecosystems in relative direction to the factories are often harmed because of this. It is hard to comprehend how pieces from our favorite brands might negatively impact the places we call home, but it is a reality that we must face.
Not only do mass-produced crochet pieces affect our world, but they only last for a short time in our closets. Because the priority of companies is to make as many of a product for the cheapest price possible, the quality of the yarn is never up to par with homemade items. With cheaper yarn comes less longevity, and these pieces will start to unravel before you can get a decent amount of wear. Going back to the cycle of waste and overconsumption, these pieces' lower quality and durability lead to their being discarded sooner than handmade items. I know from experience that many mass-produced crochet items end up in second-hand shops like Goodwill. Yes, there are a handful of handcrafted items, too, but the factory-made ones are distinguishably more disheveled and do not get purchased. So off to the landfills they go, the stitches unraveling with every passing moment.
So what can we do? Starting from the source, many companies now offer sustainably sourced crochet products, using fair labor practices and environmentally friendly materials. Purchasing from these conscious brands promotes ethical production standards that would have otherwise been overlooked. And, of course, the solution that is right in front of us is handmade crochet items. By sourcing from artists who are paid fairly and making each piece with love and dedication, you can ensure that the crochet pieces worn on your body or displayed in your room do not come from exploitation but rather a love for art that soothes the soul.